Glycine
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Glycine
MiddleAirman 24-hour GMT pilot watch (1953), beloved by pilots and military; value automatics
Biel/Bienne, Switzerland · est. 1914
part of Invicta Watch Group
$500 – $2,500
My tier · 1
Eugène Meylan founded Glycine in Biel in 1914, initially making small precision movements for elegant ladies' watches. The brand's immortality came in 1953 with the Airman: a purpose built pilot's watch with a 24 hour dial and rotating bezel, designed after a conversation with an airline pilot about tracking multiple time zones. It became beloved equipment among aviators, famously worn by American pilots during the Vietnam era.
More about Glycine
History
The Airman's cult never died, sustaining Glycine through the quartz decades alongside the value oriented Combat line. In 2016 the Invicta group acquired Glycine, a move enthusiasts feared would cheapen the name. Prices dropped and distribution widened, but the Airman formula survived largely intact.
The 24 Hour Specialty
The Airman remains one of very few true 24 hour dial watches in serial production, with the Airman No. 1 reissuing the 1953 original faithfully. Purist versions run a single 24 hour hand format, while Double Twelve variants offer conventional reading. Movements are Swiss automatics, and the crown locking bezel system continues the original patent lineage.
Prices run roughly 400 to 1,500 dollars, dramatically lower than before the acquisition.
Model Lineup
| Collection | Identity | Highlights |
|---|---|---|
| Airman | The 24 hour pilot icon | No. 1 reissue, SST 1970s revival, GMT versions |
| Combat | Field and dive value line | Combat Sub diver, Combat 6 classic |
| Incursore | Oversized Italian style | Historic 44 mm cases |
| Golden Eye | Dress models | Slim automatics |
Why It Stands Out
- A genuine icon. The 1953 Airman is real aviation history with documented military use.
- 24 hour monopoly. Almost nobody else seriously makes true 24 hour dial watches.
- Post acquisition value. Swiss automatic pilot heritage now sells under 1,000 dollars.
- Cult continuity. The Airman collector community spans generations.
Weaknesses
- Invicta stigma. Group ownership damaged prestige among enthusiasts, fairly or not.
- Discount spiral. Aggressive pricing eroded the brand's premium standing permanently.
- Narrow appeal. The 24 hour dial takes real adjustment for most wearers.
- Diluted catalog. Volume variants crowd the historically meaningful references.
Summary
Glycine is a one icon brand, and that icon is genuinely great: the Airman remains aviation watchmaking's most distinctive answer to time zones. Invicta ownership cost prestige but made the history absurdly affordable. Buy the Airman No. 1 or SST, learn the 24 hour dial, and enjoy a real tool watch story for used Seiko money.