Space and cosmonaut chronographs (official Roscosmos supplier); early mass production of automatic wristwatches (Harwood, 1926)
Grenchen, Switzerland · est. 1912
part of Independent
$1,500 – $6,000
My tier · 1
Walter Vogt founded Fortis in Grenchen in 1912, and the brand earned its first history line quickly: in 1926 it partnered with inventor John Harwood to produce the first serially made automatic wristwatch, the Harwood Automatic, wound by a bumper rotor with no crown at all. That single fact places Fortis in every serious horological history book.
The second identity arrived in space. From 1994 the Official Cosmonauts Chronograph became standard equipment for Russian crews, flying on Mir and the ISS through hundreds of mission days. Unlike marketing driven space claims, Fortis watches were procurement issued equipment. After financial struggles, entrepreneur Jupp Philipp acquired the brand in 2018, rebuilding it around stratospheric testing, the Stratoliner line, and the WERK 17 synchronized movement project.
Fortis's space credentials are contractual rather than ceremonial: cosmonaut crews wore its chronographs as issued gear for decades. The modern brand tests movements on stratospheric balloon flights and sounding rockets, publishing results. Cases are overbuilt, dials instrument clean, and the brushed block indexes give a recognizable face.
Prices run roughly 1,500 to 6,000 dollars, with Swiss automatic and chronograph calibers.
| Collection | Identity | Highlights |
|---|---|---|
| Flieger | Pilot watches since the 1980s | F-39, F-43 with synchronized WERK 17 |
| Stratoliner | Space tested chronographs | Rocket flown movement program |
| Official Cosmonauts | The issued space chronograph | Mir and ISS lineage |
| Marinemaster | Dive and marine sports | Vintage lineage revived |
Fortis owns two stories most brands would kill for: the first serial automatic wristwatch and decades as issued cosmonaut equipment. The modern Stratoliner and Cosmonauts pieces honor both with genuine testing culture. Buy it for authentic space tool heritage while the market still prices it as a secret.